When did sea life become seafood, and who decided? The Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2027 show asked that question in the rain-soaked gardens of the British ambassador’s residence in Paris. After the previous day’s scorching heat, the weather felt fitting as David Attenborough’s recorded voice warned of the depletion of ocean life.

Afterward, McCartney described industrial fishing as a war on marine creatures and urged luxury groups to invest in scaling materials such as organic cotton and lab-grown wool. According to the house, the collection used entirely responsibly sourced materials. Cotton organza lent transparency to trenches, trousers and dresses, while technical cotton, washed nylon and fully recycled denim supplied the utilitarian elements. Seafoam, sage, coral and blush met cream and chocolate brown.

Courtesy of Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2027

The ocean shaped the clothes, too. Raised waves traced low-slung trousers, bubble hems swelled around the body, and sportswear alternated between leggings beneath boxy jackets and wide trousers paired with small bralettes. Eveningwear rippled through pleated viscose, lace and graduated sequins. Knitwear delivered the strongest interpretation: clear fishing line structured hems into frills and shell-like forms, making the aquatic reference part of the construction.

Orcas, sharks and airbrushed dolphins populated dresses and T-shirts, the latter recalling seaside souvenirs. Transparent Falabella bags, made partly from recycled plastic bottles, displayed sea-creature forms, including starfish. They read like miniature display cases, bringing possession into the discussion. A heart-shaped Ryder, a smaller Appaloosa shoulder bag, transparent shoes and adidas by Stella McCartney trainers completed the accessories.

Courtesy of Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2027

Several silhouettes revisited McCartney’s archive, leaving materials and construction to provide the collection’s strongest developments. The show notes sharpened its message with a line attributed to Porphyry: “we kill for luxury and call it justice.” It was easy to admire the dolphin on the T-shirt or the starfish in the bag. McCartney asked us to carry that affection into our next meal and our next purchase.