In his time at the helm of Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccerello has shown an acute attention to the brand’s history — and this Fall/Winter installment was a full blast from the past. Accentuated waists and glamorous textiles made Vaccerello’s latest vision of the brand a fully minimalist fantasy.

Nearly half the collection was defined by an almost straight-across structured shoulder. Whether on a coat, dress, or leather jacket, the garment was cut bodily but tightly belted at the waist, whether with an actual belt or tucked into a pencil skirt. No padding or ornaments create these lines — solely strategic cut and construction. It’s a lighter, more wearable version of the shoulders that Saint Laurent once championed in their 1980s renaissance. 

The color palette, though still minimalistic, brought out Vaccerello’s colorful side (something not often seen in his menswear collections for Saint Laurent). Jewel tones, saturated Saint Laurent signature colors, and neutral browns dominated the collection, and some looks featured subtle leopards and florals.

Vaccerello’s floral patterns come to life in a fully boxy knee-length silicone dress in three different looks. It’s romantic yet modern, and derives a softer essence than the rest of the tightly belted dresses in the collection despite its unusual texture. The soft draping of the garment is achieved by soaking cigaline silk printed with the patterns in silicone before the dress is sewn together.

The only embellishments that can be seen throughout the capsule is on the shoes — pointed shoes are daintily ornamented with a satin square rose. Additionally, accessorizing jewelry is constructed from rock crystal, a frequent stone used by Yves Saint Laurent. From the color palette to the enlarged onyx setting of the runway ambiance, the entire Fall/Winter 2025 show is a gem in the continued history of the Saint Laurent brand.