• Text by Kev Ponce

If there’s one thing Nicola Formichetti knows how to do, it’s how to make something beautiful. Though not a licensed makeup artist, it’s his knack for world-building through the mediums of fashion, art, beauty, and technology that has granted the man who wears many hats one more to add on: the Global Creative Director of MAC Cosmetics. A giant in his own right, known for being the force behind some pop music’s most progressive songstresses and transforming various fashion houses, his leap into the otherworldly waters of a beauty giant that’s been a staple for nearly every makeup user over the past forty years feels like his most thrilling move yet. If you’ve been keeping your eyes glued to your iPhone screen, you would have seen global ambassador (and Formichetti’s first muse at MAC) Doja Cat eat her “Lady Danger” lipstick on the VMA red carpet, or seen a nearly topless Kris Jenner star in a daring campaign shot by Inez & Vinoodh. Under his new reign, makeup mavens everywhere can expect a bold, fearless reboot—where boundaries are explored and beauty becomes an electrifying playground for everyone.

“[For Kiko’s images in the campaign], we were channeling the iconic Japanese model Sayoko Yamaguchi, who is amazing, just like Kiko—a dear friend and collaborator. Watching her grow into such an incredible human being has been so special, and I’m so proud to share this stage with her.” —Nicola Formichetti

NICOLA FORMICHETTI: I grew up with MAC, so it was kind of like a homecoming. I did all of the Lady Gaga “Viva Glam” moments, and then I did my own Nicopanda collection with MAC, so it makes sense, but I think it was very daring for MAC to come to me.

KEV PONCE: You’re at the cross-section between fashion, art, beauty, and now you’re doing a lot with tech. Even across your work, especially with V, it feels like beauty was always a focus for you. How does beauty find its way into your creative process?

“For me, owning my beauty really comes down to feeling a sense of peace in my life. It’s those simple moments—waking up well-rested, feeling good in my body, and starting the day with a positive mindset (a smile definitely helps!). Real beauty is all about the kindness you carry inside.” — Amar Awkay

NF: When I do stuff with V and with Stephen [Gan], the clothes are the last thing that we always think about. You start from the storytelling and visuals, and most of the time, beauty [was] more exciting. Of course, I love fashion, but most of the clothes are someone else’s who designed them six months in advance. With beauty, you have the person, and then you add on the spot, and you transform. And when you work with incredible makeup artists, [and see] it happen in front of you, it’s so incredible. If the makeup is not right, it could just ruin the whole image. So the pure essence of it [matters], it’s cool.

KP: I like that. I want to talk a bit about something you mentioned, which was your early collaborations with MAC, including the one you did for Nicopanda, which I actually still have in my own MAC archive. I have the compact, which I never touched; I thought it was too pretty. I have the lipstick. I still use that from time to time, so it’s beat to shit.

“I was very surprised indeed to hear I was doing this MAC job! First to be working with my old (yet very young) friends Nicola, Inez, and Vinoodh after years and years, and secondly, but just as importantly, to be asked back to my MAC family, who has always supported me and the many other ‘not normals.’ MAC is a fierce fire leading the way to creating the way we view beauty. From one extreme to the other. All equal, all beautiful. I knew it was going to be a fun-filled day so I was super excited! Nicola and MAC are twin souls. Both ahead of their time. Both passionate about showing everyone what beauty can be (and surprising us all) and following no one’s rules. Ever.” — Kristen McMenamy


NF: I mean, we have to bring it back. Has it been 10 years yet? 

KP: Why not! The idea of collaboration overall is something you have a lot of experience with, and MAC definitely has experience with [as well] because they’ve done it with so many brands and people, but I feel like that’s sort of how a lot of people also come to know your work. What are you most excited about when it comes to that collaborative aspect of MAC and your involvement with it?

“When I learned that I was part of the MAC campaign, I was really surprised. It’s crazy to think about because I started doing makeup really young; first trying to deal with my early imperfections, then spending seven years in classical ballet, and later experimenting with light makeup looks for men, even in public spaces like the subway. I never imagined all of that would one day lead me here.”— Bach Buquen

NF: I mean, MAC kind of invented the whole collab concept in a way, because I don’t know any other brands that were doing that.

KP: Same. I feel like the word didn’t really come to fruition then.

“For me, beauty begins in the mind—in how you see, how you listen, [and] how you think. Makeup just joins the conversation. Beauty starts in the way you think.”—Joaquin Ruiz
“Beauty to me is an essence and a feeling. From moments of chaos to light, beauty can take form in many different ways.” —Jaxon Willard

NF: I still remember the Hello Kitty one they did, and when we did the Gaga and Viva Glam campaign. First of all, to have that kind of charity which brings back 100% of the proceeds to the Mac AIDS Fund, I mean, that’s super cool. To use beauty for social change, I think that’s why everyone wants to be part of Viva Glam. With the artists, we can amplify that message. And they were doing that from day one. They’ve always brought this cultural element into [the brand], and kind of spit it out again [for the world to enjoy]. Collaboration is in MAC’s DNA, and personally speaking, I’ve always loved collabs. I never want to do anything alone. Doing things together has always been my thing, and today I’m wondering about how to rethink what a collaboration could be. Now it’s become such a marketing thing, but with MAC as a pioneer of it, we need to be innovating that space further.

“When MAC came to me, it was such an incredible honor. I’ve been a huge fan of the brand for so long. Working with Nicola, who is a creative visionary, was so much fun, and Inez & Vinoodh are true artists who understood Nicola’s vision immediately. The campaign is all about authenticity and bare beauty, and to me, that means being true to who you are every single day.” — Kris Jenner


KP: Let’s get into the campaign with Inez & Vinoodh, [who] V love. What was the starting point for that?

“I grew up with MAC, as my aunt would take me makeup shopping, and I liked their gloss and lip liner. I still use the ‘Chestnut’ lip liner today! It was brilliant working with Nicola and Inez & Vinoodh. They are true visionaries who have been in the industry forever so everything flowed seamlessly throughout the shoot.” — Devyn Garcia


NF: I wanted to do something pure. It’s my first campaign, and it’s for Studio Fix, which is the most inclusive foundation in the world. The many [color] ranges, skincare power, [and] performance led [our campaign], so I wanted to create something that was going back to the purity of being so confident in your own skin that you don’t need anything else. You’re secure in your own body with the raw beauty that only you [possess]. That’s why everyone is naked, everyone is pure and in B&W, rooted in the ’90s energy. In this crazy, divided world, this message of inclusivity is [needed] more than ever, and our cast is the DNA of MAC, which is all ages, all races, all genders. All diverse cross-generation icons, they’re all super confident.

“I was gagged [when I was asked to be part of the campaign]! It was a very new experience doing a makeup campaign, especially in Paris; I had a lot of fun. [Nicola and Inez & Vinoodh] are so true to their art, and it’s always a pleasure seeing them on set and off.” — Cortisa Star


KP: You’ve gone from being a little skater kid in London in the pages of V when you were in your early 20s, to Haus of Gaga, Diesel, Mugler, Uniqlo, Nicopanda, and now MAC. What are you most excited about with this chapter, looking ahead a few years?

“Every shoot with MAC is great because I love being surrounded by makeup and the glamour of it all. When I saw the other people, I felt lucky to be included in a story with such beautiful, amazing artists and icons. Everyone on set always makes life feel like one of those fashion montages in a film with the lights, music, and screaming, and it’s an honor to experience that with them.” — Gabbriette

NF: At the moment, beauty and fashion [are] all merged, and for me, the most interesting things that are happening are in innovative beauty. I feel like this is what people are interested in today. This was fashion back in the day, but today [it] feels like beauty is more relevant. I’m so happy to be in this space, and for someone like me, a fashion person, to be able to collaborate with the beauty industry, I’m just excited to bring something incredible. I feel like MAC, being more than just a beauty brand, is about telling stories. To be able to be part of the Estée Lauder group is so impactful [as we’re] able to communicate with all the brands that we have, learn from each other, and be part of this powerhouse. [I’m] learning so much and being able to reimagine what beauty could look like in the future. 

This story appears in the pages of V156: now available for purchase!

Photography Inez & Vinoodh

Creative Direction Nicola Formichetti

Hair James Pecis (Bryant Artists)

Makeup Fulvia Farolfi (MA + Group)

Manicure Deborah Lippmann (Home Agency), Anatole Rainey (Premier)

Movement Direction Stephen Galloway

Lighting Jodokus Driessen 

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