For Spring/Summer 2027, Anthony Vaccarello continues his pursuit of refinement. Staged within Fujiko Nakaya’s Cloud #07156 installation, the Saint Laurent menswear collection was set inside a shifting landscape of fog, where silhouettes appeared momentarily before dissolving back into view.

Tailoring remained at the collection’s core. Three-button jackets sat higher on the torso, paired with narrow trousers or softly pleated styles that lengthened the silhouette. The waistcoat, V-neck knit, and blouson jacket returned in subtly adjusted proportions, demonstrating how even minor changes can transform a silhouette. Technical taffeta blousons brought lightness, while sculptural footwear, sheer and polished to a mirror finish, reinforced the collection’s sleek, elongated shape.

Courtesy of Saint Laurent

The cultural references underpinning the Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection help explain Vaccarello’s fascination with ambiguity. Marguerite Duras, whose work often derived its emotional power from what remained unsaid, emerges as an obvious touchstone. So does Tina Chow, the model and jewelry designer whose highly edited aesthetic proved that understatement can be more memorable than excess.

Seen through the fog, the Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection built on subtle shifts in proportion, texture, and silhouette, showcasing that the smallest adjustments can have the greatest effect.

Courtesy of Saint Laurent