A phoenix first must burn.
In Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024 Collection, “The Phoenix,” creative director Daniel Roseberry is inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s ability to ceaselessly reinvent herself, as well as fashion itself. “But it’s also something else: a way for me to honor that relationship, one of the most intimate ones in the world—the one in which I give women the power to be reborn, again and again and again,” states Daniel Roseberry in the collection’s notes.



Throughout the collection, the very idea of the Phoenix is reborn again, and again. The opener with Phoenix-wing-shaped shoulders adorned with a 3D chrome trompe l’oeil feathers embroidery exudes the typical image of a Phoenix, complemented by egg earrings in shiny silver palladium.

Yet, the black cape of the closed-off bird spreads to a long draped dress in black-washed silk with Phoenix-wing-shaped shoulders and an impossible V neckline.

Then, a couple of transformations later the Phoenix is reborn in a black velvet maxi dress with exaggerated shoulders; the dress is entirely embroidered with hammered gold brass pieces. This system of death and rebirth follows the Phoenix throughout her journey through the collection.

For a bird-inspired collection, there is a surprising lack of feathers, they must have all been used in the incredible white jacket that is entirely embroidered with ecru trompe l’oeil feather tips topped with contrasted black pearls and matching toque. The winged creature is grounded by black wool and mohair cropped trousers.

The collection is far from black and white. Though the beginning of the collection sets the tone with neutrals and metallics, “The Phoenix” rebrands herself in the midst of the collection with vivid reds, oranges, limes, and blues.



Near the finale, a tulle skirt with aerodynamic volume seems to be lit from within, entirely embroidered with sequins and shiny silver Egg crystals. The jacket in satin is paired with a Black crinoline veil and a headpiece topped with feathers.

Through the closer, a corset bustier in nude organza with sequins slowly dispersing into black fringes and then finishing into a long black velvet skirt, the process of rebirth starts again.

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