The Radical Inspiration of Art Deco Controls the Saint Laurent Winter 2022 Collection

The fashion house reimagines Yves Saint Laurent’s love for the art movement in a modern way.

Although revered for his timeless and classic clothing, Yves Saint Laurent was a visionary in the fashion world. After studying under Christian Dior in his youth, to taking over the fashion house after his death, Saint Laurent branched off to create his own world of fashion. We look back to his collections and are meet with pieces of grace, glamor, and sophisticated elegance. However, the fashion extraordinaire devoted a special part of his heart to Art Deco. Saint Laurent had a devotion to art and pieces from this movement. One of his most prized possessions was a pair of Dunand vases from 1925. He was inspired by the work of Jean-Michel Frank, a modernist interior designer from the 1930s, when decorating his Paris residence. This art movement had such a hold on the life of Saint Laurent, and yet it has never been seen in any the brands runway shows. 

Now, under the creative guidance of Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent is bringing Art Deco to its Women’s Winter 2022 collection. It’s influence takes over as an outline rather than a direct quotation. Taking inspiration from Nancy Cunard’s one-of-a-kind masculine wardrobe, Vaccarello embeds her dress and activist philosophies into the current fashion climate. 

By taking signature pieces from the house and morphing their structures, Vaccarello reimagines Yves Saint Laurent’s classic looks in a truly Art Deco way. Using tension as inspiration, Vaccarello reinvents outerwear with denser fabrics, and adds delicate dress underneath these heavy garments to achieve the look. These clashing weights and fabrics fit into the Cunard inspired theme of the dichotomy between masculine and feminine dress. Stacked silver, gold, and bronze bracelets are a nod to the old money glamor of the Art Deco scene, while strong sloped shoulder detailings on coats and tops give a more modern look. 

Imitation furs are the perfect staple of how Vaccarello is combining the past with the present. Made from the same craftsman that have worked with the house in the past, the fur looks like it came straight out of the 1930s, but has an ethical spin that fits into the standards of today’s fashion. The subdued color palette of the collection fits in with the motifs of Art Deco, as black and metallic colors played primary roles. It gives us a sense of reflection, to look on inspirations of the past and reimagine them in the lens of today. 

As we look to the past for inspiration, Saint Laurent shows that movements from yesteryear can fit into the modern age.


Watch the video below for the full show:

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