In the hushed, otherworldly atmosphere of Iris van Herpen’s Amsterdam atelier, creation rarely follows convention. For her Fall/Winter 2025 haute couture collection, titled Sympoiesis, van Herpen didn’t begin with a sketch, but with a question: how can the ocean’s fragility, force, and future be embodied in fabric?

The question bloomed into a months-long process that merged couture and biodesign. Across the atelier, experimentation unfolded through research, dialogue, sculptural trial and error, and the study of living materials. In one corner, algae glowed softly in seawater baths, their delicate life cycles observed with scientific care. In another, ultra-fine airfabric—a regenerative textile so light it barely registers to the touch—was tested for its ability to mimic the fluidity of deep-sea motion.

As she has done time and again, van Herpen turned to nature as a collaborator. The term “sympoiesis,” borrowed from systems theory and biology, translates loosely to “making with.” It describes a process of co-creation between materials, minds, and the natural world. That idea guided every decision in the making of the collection.

Courtesy of Iris Van Herpen

In both material and movement, the garments echo marine life. Layered organza captures the shifting transparency of shallow tides, while 3D-printed tendrils mirror the branching forms of coral. Airy silhouettes suggest submerged motion, and fabric drapes with a levity that feels almost weightless. Some pieces seem shaped not by hand, but by nature itself.

Inside this evolving atelier, van Herpen continues to redefine haute couture as an act of forward-looking imagination. The accompanying film offers a glimpse into the making of the collection, revealing how months of experimentation, craftsmanship, and material innovation came together. It brings viewers into the creative heart of Sympoiesis, where ideas took shape layer by layer and the ocean’s rhythms were translated into form, texture, and motion.