The stars aligned for Valentino’s Haute Couture show – literally. With a packed front row filled with celebrities like Florence Pugh, Anne Hathaway, Ariana DeBose, Andrew Garfield, and Kate Hudson, Pierpaolo Piccioli proved himself as a master of haute couture.

Called “The Beginning,” the show, which took place at Rome’s Piazza di Spagna, paid tribute to Valentino Garavani and the house’s heritage, while still pushing the brand towards more contemporary times. Fittingly, the grandeur of the piazza was only matched by the collection itself, which was littered with skirts billowing in the summer breeze, swaying oversized headdresses, and an artists palette of stunning colors.

Like at last year’s haute couture show, Piccioli cast a wide variety of models of different genders, sizes, and ethnicities. In doing so, he further pushed the brand into modern times, truly ushering in a “new beginning” for the legendary fashion house.

Despite the stunning, setting Italian sun and an echoing live performance by singer Labrinth, the collection stood out for its bright colors and playful materials. Feathers and fringe marked the show, alongside oversized bows, fishnet stockings, and billowing capes. Bright yellow, green, purple, and metallic gold were commonly shown, as was Valentino’s iconic pink, which was made popular by this fall and winter’s Pink PP collection.

Flowing dresses with deep V-necklines and color-blocked bows were shown in several colorways, as were slinky, fully embellished gowns with matching gloves, and off-the-shoulder gowns with tulle ballerina skits. Perhaps the most shocking element of the show was the several feather headdresses, resembling a birds nest. That feathered look carried on for the entire show, from capes to skirts to appliques on high heels. Another major element of the collection was a rose theme, with the flower details on waistbands, lapels. headbands, shoes, and even in the pattern of a satin dress.

Overall, this year’s haute couture collection was a grander, more alive version of last year’s, which took place at the Gaggiandre in Venice. There were 102 looks in the show, a step up from last year’s 84, though the feathers, oversized hats, and bright colors of 2021 crossed over into 2022.

By using contemporary materials and youthful tailoring, Piccioli continued pushing the Italian house into the center of today’s fashion lexicon. This year’s haute couture show served as a reminder that this truly is just the beginning for Valentino.