Nothing says progressive Americana quite like a Thom Browne collection, and the label’s Spring/Summer 2027 show proved that again. The New York-based luxury house grew to fame by toying with ideas of traditional menswear. Amidst all the hyper-normative masculine silhouettes and garment-related gender associations from men’s fashion history, they consistently weave a new language.

Thom Browne chose the Palazzo Serbelloni, an 18th-century palace that once served as Napoleon Bonaparte’s temporary residence, as the backdrop for the SS27 menswear show. Within the historic palazzo’s courtyard, the brand laid out its rather atypical garden.

Arranged symmetrically, reminiscent of the Neoclassical architecture of the Palazzo Serbelloni itself, 400 potted seersucker flowers sat in a grid. To open the show, out walked the “groundskeeper,” a model carrying a watering can, also wrapped in seersucker. A lightweight cotton woven into smooth stripes, seersucker is one of Thom Browne’s most iconic artistic codes. Furthering the garden theme, several of the looks featured the flora and fauna typical of an American garden.

Swooping dragonfly wings, dripping golden honeycomb, and deep green crickets appeared on blazers. Wide-brimmed hats served both as stylistic ornament, adding a tasteful top line to the featured looks, and as protection from the beaming Italian sun.

In the spirit of spring, the brand also presented a wide-ranging color palette. Though the brand’s signature gray appeared regularly throughout the collection, light floral-inspired hues pierced through the muted gravel that the models traversed. Browne displayed bags in the bright yellow of sunshine, cordura trench coats the poised red of roses, and ties the soft blue of hydrangeas.

Fine details proliferated throughout the collection, with several pieces sporting highly complicated trimming. Light distressing was complemented with floating yarns and loosely woven cotton threads. Colors, painted on by hand, were embellished with intricate embroideries. Pearls, golden buttons, and silver lace streamed through pieces like a brook through a parterre.

To conclude the show, a bride emerged from the Palazzo’s corridors, a symbol of spring. Adorned in a blooming white cloak, a fitted and tailored blazer, and a dazzling veil, the final model crossed the garden, wrapping Thom Browne’s SS27 Menswear presentation.