TISCI X BUCKHIESTER: BURBERRY'S SS23 PRE-COLLECTION INVITES ARTIST JARED BUCKHIESTER TO THE FOREFRONT

TISCI X BUCKHIESTER: BURBERRY'S SS23 PRE-COLLECTION INVITES ARTIST JARED BUCKHIESTER TO THE FOREFRONT

GEN V

TISCI X BUCKHIESTER: BURBERRY'S SS23 PRE-COLLECTION INVITES ARTIST JARED BUCKHIESTER TO THE FOREFRONT

The minds of Creative Director Riccardo Tisci and New York artist Jared Buckhiester synchronize to reimagine utilitarianism and British femininity.

The minds of Creative Director Riccardo Tisci and New York artist Jared Buckhiester synchronize to reimagine utilitarianism and British femininity.

Text: Maddie Street

With an emphasis on the duality of regality and refined utility, Burberry's second installment of Spring/Summer 2023 Pre-Collection is a modern twist on classic British femininity and functionality. This collection showcases a secondary progression within the creative series "Friend and Family," which targets the amplification of voices of various inspiring creatives from unforeseen backgrounds. For this edition, the minds of Burberry's emblematic Chief Creative Officer, Riccardo Tisci, and New York-based contemporary artist, Jared Buckhiester, joined together in faultless harmony. Cementing his independent creative identity, Jared evoked a translation of themes by styling the collection and photographing the look-book.

"Jared and I have been close friends for a long time and I have always admired him, both for his dedication to his work and the passion that comes with that, as well as his commitment to living fiercely by his identity and being true to himself. I am so excited to be able to share the result of our creative worlds coming together with the release of this unique and very special collection" - Riccardo Tisci

Through the delicate reframing of juxtapositions shown through the colorful workwear-inspired jackets and chain motifs on flowing silk shirts, house codes are paid homage. Iconic Burberry outerwear such as duffle coats and car coats are animated with stripes, pleated details, and the Equestrian Knight Design is paired with tactile pieces such as leather ties, biker trousers, and padded jackets.

The functionality of workwear is playfully recontextualized through the car coat in dark birch brown cotton canvas, worn under an oversized shearling coat, and a utility-style coat in black cotton gabardine, with exaggerated pockets and appliquéd stripes. An orange field jacket in cotton canvas, with a corduroy collar and contrast topstitching. The Equestrian Knight Design intarsia-knitted on a cashmere-wool twinset and 3D-printed on a tailored jacket. A leather apron under a logo-quilted puffer jacket.

Utilitarian uniforms reimagined. A hooded duffle coat in birch brown check wool, rebelliously worn with a black leather shirt, tie and biker trousers. Orange stripes accent a bright red wool and leather-trimmed jacket and dusty orange cotton-canvas coat, styled with blue denim paneled jeans and a strapless playsuit. The iconic car coat in technical fabrications with feminine pleats at the back and bespoke cotton gabardine jacquard-woven with the Equestrian Knight Design, layered under a black leather padded jacket and bomber jacket in light air force green nylon

Modern takes on classic British femininity is shown through the flowing cashmere wraparound cape in new Pixel Check, trimmed with leather. A black wool-cashmere cardigan intarsia-knitted with farmyard animals. Within the tailoring, bold silhouettes are fused with traditional and subversive elements. Black wool tailored jackets structurally cinched at the waist or presented in boxy proportions appliquéd with colourful stripes – juxtaposed with equestrian-inspired leather chaps and floor-grazing skirts.

Credits: Images Courtesy of Burberry/Jared Buckhiester

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