When Tom Ford was tasked with opening the Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear season, he did so with undeniable fanfare. The collection echoes a type of power only attainable in the current sexual and political climate, with a diverse cast of models and androgynous silhouettes the calling card. Star powers Gigi Hadid and Joan Smalls anchor the show’s high-glam sex appeal in strong-shouldered velvet and silk suits reminiscent of the glam rock era of the 1970s, and evening gowns are given an extra edge with chain-link detailing.

For Tom Ford, tailoring is king. The collection is cuffed, tucked, buttoned, and accessorized to heaven and back. The color palette is decidedly elegant — lush velvet jackets appear in wine hues, silk trousers vary from muted royal purples to army green and rust, and metallic accents give a nod to the effortless cool vibe akin to a brand like Yves Saint Laurent. Accessories range from fur fedoras to glitter and velvet peep-toe party shoes.

Though Tom Ford Fall 2019 is undeniably classic in its tailoring, that is not to say it doesn’t have the finger on the pulse of what is young and fresh. The collection closes with a silver gown that wouldn’t be out of place at Studio 54, but the buckle details and Versace-esque crystal chain mail couldn’t be more now.