In a buzzy Winter 2026 collection, Haider Ackermann embraces what no house can do better than Tom Ford—erotic officewear. Trousers are paired with cropped blouses and sweaters, revealing a line of midriff accentuated by thin belts that float above the waistband. Fabric appears skewed to one side, in the process of draping off. One laissez-faire detail in an otherwise put-together look changes its entire implication. 

Transparent trenches, skirts, and sleeves add a sensory layer, resting atop button-downs and sheer black tights. The collection’s psychological nature is grounded in exceptional tailoring. The sharpness is intriguing in itself—an open collar is made more captivating due to how well the suit fits. 

The essence of the ‘90s runs through the showing, but is offset by distinctly current details. Patent, croc-embossed thigh-high boots meet pinstripe blazers. Leather gloves are paired with ties and tucked-in shirts, buttoned to the collar. For other looks, the first three buttons remain undone.

It’s a dance between restraint and indulgence, although both possess a suaveness unique to Tom Ford. Restrictive fabrics and silhouettes are made appealing, while everyday wear is elevated; well-fitting denim is another bright spot. 

“Seduction is a dialogue. Opposites that attract, the encounter of an embrace, personal histories that dissolve,” Ackermann wrote in his show notes. In a collection both nostalgic and brand new, Tom Ford embraces the contradictions of desire.