While sensibility is still embedded in the core of New York-based designer Tory Burch, the FW24 collection unraveled a new era filled with exploratory influences. Celebrating 20 years of still being one of the most predominant labels to showcase at New York Fashion Week, the show was presented at the iconic New York Public Library with a curated playlist produced by Wladimir Schall that included “Toccata and Fugue in D Minor, BWV 565” by Johann Sebastian Bach, interpreted by L. Stokowski and the Philadelphia Orchestra; “A Forest” by The Cure; and “Isolation” and “Disorder” by Joy Division.

Textures and materials are molded around the body, making for interesting silhouettes throughout. Fabrics are formed light and airy, reminiscent of performance gear, with the collection’s dresses and skirts maintaining a flat and complementary construction. Dipping into experimental techniques, a mix of quirky consistencies includes paper leather, faux croc, raw denim, calf hair, sturdy cotton, tinsel fringe, and sheer jersey mesh. Using ordinary household items as a unique source of inspiration, garments are seen in the form of a lace trim slip debossed in paper leather, and a shower cap-esque flowery nylon emphasizes all angles.

Elsewhere, geometric styles are spotted in angular dresses and skirts that echo a lampshade. Additionally, translucent skirts are embellished with hand-painted sequins and jersey mesh dresses are ornamented with ruffles. Staple outerwear and tailoring are seen in jackets, meticulous blazers, trousers, slips, hoodies, and trench coats in reinterpreted forms.

Accessory offerings include the Fleming minaudière bag displayed in a new 3D-printed faux acetate, meant to be rested on the hip or carried. The signature Lee Radziwill collection delivers a new shopper tote and messenger in diverse colors and finishes including distressed patent, cyan leather, and tonal jacquard. Where footwear is concerned, the latest must-have shoe of the season includes the Pierced pump, leveled up with curves and a silver “toe ring.”

Sunglasses exist in wrap-around shield frames, and tights in ivory, black, and taupe spotlight several ensembles. Jewelry is present in domed resin earrings, with trompe l’oeil spikes piercing through the earlobe. The collection’s accessory lineup also includes clusters of glass fruit in homage to everyday styling opportunities like a trip to the grocery store.

The contemporary epoch of Tory Burch is subliminally cool, and the FW24 collection is simply the opening act of what we can expect to see over the next 20 years.