Moments after Tory Burch’s Spring 2023 collection circulated the internet last September, the photos were met with one resounding inquiry: “That’s Tory Burch?” This was a fair response considering the brand’s history. Emily Ratajkowski in nipple-baring mesh is not exactly what anyone expected from a label that was once synonymous with ballet flats and college-girl prep.

This style turn, Burch explained to the New York Times, has had less to do with an intentional rebrand and more to do with the fact that she stepped down as CEO, allowing her to concentrate on design full-time. That said, Burch’s recent collections have maintained her affinity for color and classic silhouettes, but these days the clothes are simpler, sexier, and more sophisticated than before.

For Fall/Winter 2023, Burch was interested in complicating ideals of beauty, femininity, and perfection in women’s lives.

Models were clad in luxurious materials that were weathered or had a raw hem. Heels were broken, logos hung off of bags, and familiar silhouettes were made new by exposing details that are typically hidden, such as shapewear and safety pins. “This collection is about the confidence that comes from being unapologetically yourself,” Burch said. “I don’t think women want rules anymore.”

The collection’s understated highlight came in the form of a mesh off-the-shoulder dress—one in black, one in cream—which was given texture by the addition of fishnet tights and square-toe flats in a deep red leather (the color of the season).

In striking a balance between classic and contemporary, Burch has expanded her repertoire and, surely, her fan base.