Tweed, Sequins and Ruffles, Oh My: Giambattista Valli’s Fall Winter Collection

The french designer presents their 2023-2024 collection that marries classic femininity with the daring

Set against a stark white runway, Giambattista Valli’s collection becomes the center focus for audiences, re-focusing the show on the designer’s flawless craftsmanship and captivating designs. Opening with a full tweed jumpsuit paired with a white t-shirt and closing with a red-tiered gown, Giambattista Valli delivers a collection that is both feminine and daring, bohemian yet classic and featuring a little bit of just about everything. 

This is a collection centered around materials and textures – multicolored tweeds, sparkling sheer fabrics, heavy sequins, bouncing ruffles, and feathers all play together in perfect juxtaposition. While this may seem like an overload, the pieces remain unified through color and silhouette, allowing such differences to amplify Valli’s design choices. Long sleeve maxi dresses in variations of tweed are often paired with t-shirts to keep them casual, as ruffles and sparkles spice up sheer tops and skirts. The barely-there trend is best seen in a selection of dresses that layer sheer polka-dotted tulle over opaque black undergarments, and a selection of glittery black fabrics that do the same. Flowing gowns with floral appliques steady heavy sequined and embroidered ensembles, striking a balance between ease and formality. It would also be impossible to talk about texture and not mention the standout piece of this collection which is not a gown, but rather a pair of pants with feather detailing. The collection features a few colorways of the silhouette, including an all-white pair, a metallic pair with cobalt feathers, and a cream pair complete with pink feathers and pink contrast stitching that are sure to be a hit. 

In terms of silhouette, the collection keeps it simple while incorporating an almost ‘70s touch seen in flowing dresses, jumpsuits and flared sleeves. However, this collection does also re-imagines past trends such as the empire waist and cold shoulder silhouettes that feel surprisingly modern – a black sequined dress with gold detailing highlighting the high waistline is a gorgeous interpretation, as are the gowns that incorporate the shoulder cutouts. Further unifying the collection, a color scheme of black, white and gold anchors the pieces, while pops of purple, cobalt, pink, and red add exciting but subtle touches. And, the brand’s unmistakable florals are also in attendance, complimenting the final few pink looks of the collection. 

Giambattista Valli’s collection does it all. Playing with textures, patterns, materials, colors … the list goes on and on. And yet, the collection is unmistakably tied to the brand’s core identity, exploring their commitment to timeless elegance, unique shapes, and luxurious silhouettes. It is in this balance that the collection soars. 

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