Tweed Still Rules at Chanel
Tweed? At Chanel? Groundbreaking.
Kicking off the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Chanel stayed true to their roots with a ready-to-wear Autumn/Winter 2022 collection full of tweed. Even the temporary Grand Palais Éphémère, used by Chanel as the real Grand Palais undergoes renovations ahead of the 2024 Olympics, was fully decked-out in the brand’s signature fabric, with tweed-lined walls, chairs, and floors. Even the invitations were printed on a dainty strip of pink tweed.
Paying homage to the original tweed jacket that Coco Chanel borrowed from the Duke of Westminster in the 1920s, the show had a distinctly British flair, taking viewers on a journey across the United Kingdom. Giant rubber wellies and shooting jackets, made for Coco Chanel’s famous walks in the Scottish countryside, met tweed miniskirts and knit wool stockings, designed after her contemporary jaunts through London.
French designer Virginie Viard, Chanel’s creative director since Karl Lagerfeld’s death in 2019, created modern tweed looks for the collection, filled with contemporary spins on classic Chanel designs. Alongside her recognition of the houses’ roots, Viard was on-trend with oversized coats and wide-leg, tailored trousers (made of tweed, of course). Jewel tones, another popular trend on the runway, were heavily featured in this collection, though Viard also brightened it up with watermelon and fuchsia. Chanel’s take on the thigh-high boot trend came in the form of stockings, paired with wellies or slingback pumps.
Building off of last Fall’s ready-to-wear-collection that featured a few midriff-baring tops and some slinky tanks, this year’s collection showed just a peep of skin, with some sleeveless dresses and lower-cut tops.
Gold jewelry matched with classic Chanel blazer buttons and gold chain purses. Mini bags, the handbag trend of the season, littered the runway, having had their own tweed makeover, alongside turquoise and pink leather bags.
In recognition of the invasion of Ukraine, Chanel opened the show with John Lennon’s “I Read the News Today, Oh Boy.” The show came the same week that Chanel joined a growing list of companies that will show support for Ukraine by no longer working in Russia. “We will no longer deliver into Russia, we will close our boutiques and we already suspended our e-commerce,” the brand said in a statement.
You can watch the full show below.