Up and down the halls of Hair and Makeup at Marc Jacobs

Up and down the halls of Hair and Makeup at Marc Jacobs

90 models and 50 dancers. How Pat McGrath and Guido Palau approach a dizzying number of faces that express Marc Jacob’s world of beauties embedded in the blueprint of New York.

90 models and 50 dancers. How Pat McGrath and Guido Palau approach a dizzying number of faces that express Marc Jacob’s world of beauties embedded in the blueprint of New York.

Photography: Stella Pak

There was an unusual calm as all the artists sat in their stations, working on each model as Pat McGrath and Guido Palau strolled up and down the halls of Hair and Makeup for direction, approvals and critiques. As a model would walk in, Pat would grab them by the hand with the sweetness of her usual mother’s charm.  “Darling, come with me, my beauty.” The anticipation of the Marc Jacobs show is watching our icons at work on their hand picked muses. It was as if each model was cast for a film. Even before they were pulled into hair and makeup, there was a je ne sais qoi of an individual recognized through the Marc Jacobs lens.

As Guido Palau notes, “He’s (Marc Jacobs) passionate about style. This show is about all different styles in one genre. All from different points in time. The hair’s much more today. It nods to certain periods. A bit 90’s, a bit 60’s. But it’s always how a girl might wear her hair today as well. Girls with ponytails, deep side parts with some hats. Some are really high end. Some are from the East Village. It’s all what inspires Marc. Every kind of woman and man.”

No model looked alike because the spectrum of references spanned through iconic time periods, up and down New York. However, Pat McGrath exercised restraint with Marc Jacobs Beauty Highliner Gel Eye Crayon Eyeliner and Marc Jacobs Beauty Le Marc Lip Crème Lipstick.

“We’re doing a lot, so we’ve been given two items. A Black pencil and a red lipstick. Noone can look the same. A real play on individuality. Everyone looking individual. because that’s what we kind of do. We think about a black eyeliner and a red lipstick, you think of all periods. Past, present, future. It’s everything really. Right?” Pat McGrath says with a wink.

Picked up, amplified and polished through Marc Jacobs’ eye, Guido Palau notes, “There’s a lot of natural things. I washed the hair with Redken Detox Hair Cleansing Cream, using Redken Triple Dry 15 for a natural texture. I’ll pull it down to a deep side part, a boyish thing, lots of black headbands. It does nod to the ’90s and ’60s. It’s about the richness to the women and a realness to the women. Redken Triple Take 32 - a non-fragrant hairspray to hold things in place. It’s just a Marc Jacobs show. They’re all the women I love as well.”

But let’s not forget the 50 dancers who were getting their rehearsals in on the mainstage while Pat McGrath’s second in command gathered the artists with a strategy for the final touch ups. “Do you guys have body lotion? Make sure it’s oil free. No Beyonce legs. We don’t want shiny shimmery, glittery, gleaming legs. It’s about a chic sheen.” We’re only powdering their forehead and the side of the nose. Leave the cheekbones alone. Cheekbones should look like skin.” Apply the color with your finger, blot, apply the color again and maybe you want to apply a third time. Clean the edges. Lashes. Only use mascara if it says to put on mascara. Make sure the lashes are curled. No sad lashes. Maybe a feathering sweep. Brows. No overdone brows. Make sure the color is not too warm or too ashy for the skin. The warmth can show through. Brush up and feather out. So far, well done. We have very little time. Grab your model. Let’s get it done. We have ten minutes”

As the first show was finished and adrenaline pulsed through the halls, I left the Park Avenue Armory through the back entrance a few steps behind Stephen Jones. “Does anyone have a lighter? Yes? No? Anyone?” My heart skipped a beat as my mouth squealed like a little girl. “Meeeeeee. I will bring you fire. I will bring you ice. Anything you need.” We shared a cigarette, coming down from the adrenaline of the show. We chatted about the individuality of each look and his approach to head pieces. “It was really individual things that were made specifically to go with that outfit. As it would have been worn at the time according to Marc. Liz Taylor from the V.I.P’s… everything about it was really... to be accurate. Marc is the most precise person I’ve ever worked with. “I want that spot on that veil, there please.”... Marc is that detailed, it’s amazing. And it’s absolutely polished.” With that, we parted ways as i tried to keep my cool and didn’t ask for a selfie to post on instagram. Because the love was too real.

Courtesy of V's own, Stella Pak


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