In the quiet, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it village of San Cassiano in Southern Italy lies the Don Totu hotel, one of the country’s most underrated (or perhaps just most hidden) gems. From the street, its pale stone façade is modest, nearly secretive, especially once you become aware of what lies beyond the wall. Once you step inside the historic space, the scene changes entirely: vaulted ceilings rise above airy sitting rooms, light spills across antique tiles, and the scent of jasmine, fig, and citrus drifts in from lush gardens.

The building itself, an 18th-century palazzo once belonging to the local land steward (Don Totu himself), has been restored with an eye for both authenticity and comfort, balancing the grandeur of its history with an intimate, welcoming atmosphere. The grand “welcome” is made all the better by a lovely and inviting staff. 

Courtesy of Don Totu

After passing through the communal sitting rooms as well as the kitchen, where guests can help themselves to a fridge of refreshing beverages, not to mention meet a chef so friendly that he lent me his bathing suit after the Roman airport temporarily lost my bag, you’ll walk outside and begin to see the true vastness of the once-palace. The six rooms are individually designed, blending pared-down modern touches with the warm textures of the region—linen drapes, locally made ceramics, and soft neutral tones that let the original stonework shine through.

Of course, Don Totu supplies you with all of the basic amenities one would expect: air-conditioning, plush linens, Wi-Fi, and sound systems are there if you need them, but the real luxury is the quiet.

Courtesy of Don Totu

That quiet is only broken by the hum of daily life in the garden. Guests drift between the pool, an elegant strip of turquoise framed by olive trees, and shaded terraces where breakfast is served each morning. Breakfast itself is a highlight, a spread of warm pastries, fresh fruit, local cheeses, and charcuterie, with many ingredients grown on-site. They’ll likely suggest coffee with a hint of almond, apparently a local (and delicious) tradition.

Later in the day, there might be aperitifs on the terrace, a wine tasting in one of the cool stone rooms, or simply an hour in the underground hammam, a hidden space with a Turkish bath, shower, and spa pool.

Courtesy of Don Totu

The team at Don Totu is part of what makes the experience memorable. The staff spend the days arranging bike rentals, booking tables at nearby restaurants, or packing beach bags without being asked. Their hospitality is warm but unobtrusive, making it easy to feel both looked after and entirely free.

For those who want to explore beyond the walls, the hotel can arrange cooking lessons, yoga classes, vespa tours, and excursions to the region’s beaches and hill towns. Yet many guests (myself included) find themselves content to stay put, letting the hours pass between sun, shade, and the cool relief of the pool. My main (and perhaps only) excursion from the hotel was a 40-minute bike ride to the beach, passing through Southern Italian scenery that made Call Me By Your Name feel like Don’t Call Me at All Unless You’re Taking Me Here. 

It’s not hard to see why Don Totu earns near-perfect scores on travel sites, or why travel journalists are calling it a new favorite. The precious hotel is a rare mix of heritage, design, and soul. In a region that already moves at a slower rhythm, this hidden palazzo manages to slow time even further, turning a few days in southern Italy into something you’ll carry with you long after you’ve left.

Courtesy of Don Totu