American brand Vaquera moved to Paris this summer, but its most recent collection reflects a shift in more than just location. Its SS26 runway doubled down on the brand’s recent turn towards more versatile, commercial-friendly looks — but still incorporated elements of joy and absurdism central to its ethos. 

The collection explores the idea of good taste and bad taste, and makes an argument that the two categories don’t really exist — rather, there is only a “right time” and a “wrong time” to wear something. “The Vaquera girl realizes the power of the most exciting scenario: wearing the wrong thing at the right time,” the brand said in a statement.

Printed pouf sleeves are paired with cropped trousers, creating an avant-garde silhouette that still maintains a level of trendiness. The brand’s strong sense of identity shines through in layered dresses and oversized netted hats, channeling the theatricality of its earlier runways.

Acid wash jeans, bold prints, and snakeskin-patterned sets give the collection a confident edge. The brand’s collaborations with Nike and Japanese denim label Moussy also made their debut at Paris Fashion Week, making it clear that creative directors Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee know how to meet the moment. With a bold collection that still feels approachable, Vaquera puts down new roots.