This weekend, Véronique Nichanian’s 37-year tenure as Hermès menswear designer came to a close. Nichanian has been running the helm long before many of the show’s attendees and reviewers (including myself) were alive. In typical Hermès fashion, her exit wasn’t a bang, but a chic whisper.

Images courtesy of Hermès

Before getting into the show, I’d like to add some praise to Véronique Nichanian’s already-accoladed career. Hermès Menswear was like a stable friend. You could always rely on them, and they constantly delivered what they needed to. Throughout the waves of logo mania, in the 1990s and then 2010s, Nichanian spearheaded minimalism, essentially inventing quite luxury. She never gave in to microtrends, and in a decade of duck, duck, goose with Creative Directors, it was impressive she steered the brand for so long.

The show was classic Hermès and classic menswear. It was faithful to the brand Nichanian has spent crafting since 1988. Like many shows this season, the suiting got tighter. Pants slimmed in and jackets have tight waists and broad shoulders.

Images courtesy of Hermès

The show felt familiar, and that was on purpose. Nichanian littered in looks from the earlier years of her career, proving the longevity her designs and Hermès have, (as well as resale value, as we know Birkin’s never depreciate). However, coral shearling coats and mustard yellow nylon jackets were something new, an unexpected moment Nichanian left us with as she passed the torch (to Grace Wales Bonne, nonetheless).

Images courtesy of Hermès

Being that it’s Hermès, we need to talk about the leather, the place where Nichanian has always shone. Unlike the previous collection, leather takes over, appearing in almost every look. Crocodile pants, leather jumpsuits, shearling-lined coats, and even shirts all feature the textile. It may seem like nothing innovative, but like all Hermès pieces, the devil is in the details. 

Images courtesy of Hermès

After the finale, nearly a dozen screens played Nichanian’s final bows from seasons past. And as fast as it started, Nichanian came and took her last bow. And to that V say back, farewell, and thank you.