Vetements infused their Fall Winter 21/22 collection with plenty of signature brazenness for their largest showcase thus far, complete with 165 men’s and women’s looks. The brand announced the upcoming show Friday morning with a trio of Instagram posts reading “F*ck The Past,” bracing viewers for another eccentric installment.

The collection’s opening piece set a rebellious tone, with the model donning an all-black ensemble of dress pants with ripped knees, thick-soled shoes, and an upside-down anarchist symbol splashed across his chest. Throughout the collection, each model’s face was obscured by ski masks or various styles of sunglasses. “Think while it’s still legal,” read the second model’s graphic tee, paired with an asymmetrical lace hem midi skirt. Another graphic tee — a cancel sign over the words “main stream” — felt a bit too on the nose. Images of the collection’s first third of looks depicted models in front of a nuclear explosion-like background, emphasizing the flame-inspired patterns and and moody gothic vibe.

The middle set’s background indicated a stark contrast in tone, with models standing in front of a natural rainbow scene. In opposition to the cheery setting, one model’s face was concealed by a curtain of dark hair, and another was outfitted in a head-to-toe lace stocking. Pieces included ribcage-baring pantsuits, a slew of neon separates, and black basics in oversized silhouettes. One model sported a seemingly Juicy Couture-inspired tank with a pleated maroon skirt and red patent boots. The collection successfully juxtaposed outerwear classics such as luxe fur coats and trenches with splashy graphic prints.

Vetements’ last set of looks posed models in front of a blue and white backdrop, clearly referencing a stairway to heaven. Structured shoulders were apparent in several pieces — some outfits even included football pads. A standout look included a colorful suit printed with national flags, covering the model’s hands and footwear. Hyperfeminine dresses added playful cheer to the collection’s sporty and corporate-friendly pieces.

While some artistic choices felt like they were trying too hard to be nonconformist, the latest installment cements Vetements as trailblazers of contemporary fashion.