VMAN’s Top Ten SS21 Menswear Collections

VMagazine’s Fashion Director, Gro Curtis breaks down the best of the Milan fashion scene.

Milan showed us what we already knew about streetwear on catwalks and in ready-to-wear collections. I am extremely happy because all of us who are in love with fashion are sick and tired of seeing the same old hoodies and sneakers in each city, season after season. The new normal proves to be going back to classics. I’m very excited that designers in Italy showed a huge appreciation toward good old tailoring. Sometimes all you need to gear up and feel both safe and chic is a perfectly cut jacket. That should sum up the whole season in Milan.

Dunhill Look 24

Dunhill is a hidden gem of contemporary tailoring and designer Mark Weston keeps improving, season after season, how he is able to show collections full of extremely fluid, but also very carefully constructed pieces. My absolute winner for upcoming spring/summer season is this version of a tailored cardigan.

A Cold Wall Look 12

What was once known as streetwear is now evolving into symbiosis between utility and tailoring. One of the champions of that trend is a young designer, Samuel Ross. And that’s the reason why he deserves to be on our list of the best collections shown during Milan fashion week.

Marni Look 18

Leather biker jackets are nothing new on the catwalks, but what Francesco Risso did with this jacket is outstanding. The details of the deconstruction and asymmetry are proving to me that this is the “it” leather jacket of the season.

NO. 21 Look 20

Alessandro Dell’Acqua is the master of mixing details of masculine and feminine beauty together, which shows in this particular look from his outstanding collection. He plays with very bourgeois beige tones, but in a perfect combination with a cropped lace top, which is an extremely feminine definition of dressing, with a perfect coat, which any guy could wear.

Emporio Armani Look 53

No one, absolutely no one, in the fashion industry knows how to cut a suit like Giorgio Armani. I strongly believe that a black suit is a classic “must have” in everyone’s closet. In this version, Armani provided a twist with a sequin top and a leather belt. It all makes everything look quite modern.

Also, with an Armani jacket, or even pants, what you have to think about is the fact that you have so many hidden details that are carefully executed. So, even when you look at the image online, you should always zoom for details or even search for a video.

Valentino Look 25

Even though I personally strongly believe that shorts should be only worn in summer, if you’re on a boat or if you’re playing tennis, Pierpaolo Piccioli proved me wrong by presenting an amazingly tailored collection where he combined extremely short, tailored shorts with oversized jackets and shirts. The result is an extremely chic and extremely relaxed version, coming from Valentino’s head designer.

Versace Look 26

You can love it or hate it, but no one has such a distinctive eye for combining almost neon colors in tailoring as Donatella Versace. The living proof of this claim is her newest collection and the fact that she’s managed to make such strong in-your-face colors chic.

Fendi Look 58

Silvia Fendi is responsible for one of the most outstanding coats in Milan. This dust on gray coat is both classic and modern, and that’s the best thing about the Fendi menswear collection. In a way, it’s generation-less, if that has any sense. You can imagine this coat on someone who is 35. You can imagine this coat on someone who is 20. It’s simply a timeless classic.

DSquared2 Look 12

The Caten brothers are surprisingly showing us that less is more. The perfect example of that is the mix between oversized tuxedo pants, combined with a black lace top, even though the top is extremely gentle and feminine, it’s actually proving to be extremely sexy and seductive in a masculine way.

Boss Look 2

Boss is worldwide known for its suiting, but for the Milan show, what was interesting was actually the use of colors and the combination of utility jogging pants with an oversized double-breasted jacket. That is one of the champion looks of the Boss menswear collection.

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