For their latest collection, vowels renounces the avant-garde. Hide your kids, hide your wife, there’s no couture here, and if there is, they’re coming for it. Ok, now bring them back out, because replacing the lavish designer is a collection of enduring, versatile garments anchored in a wardrobe suited for the progressively global wardrobe. 

To fully understand the Japanese brand’s latest project, we must turn to its guiding philosophy of Shu Ha Ri. The Japanese martial art concept is believed to have originated in 17th century Japan, outlining the ways in which one learns to master a technique. To put it (very) simply, Shu Ha Ri is a way of thinking summed up as: first learn, then detach, then transcend. This very approach is what Creative Director Yuki Yago calls into play when constructing each vowels collection. 

Apparel is elevated through the lens of a contemporary wardrobe of seasonal silhouettes and staples made of the highest quality materials, fabrics and finishing techniques. vowels’ line is as durable as it is delightfully elementary. Pieces are made to last, both the tests of time and the trials of traditional wear and tear. 

Relaxed cotton, wool and silk shirting manifest in checker and floral prints, quieter blue and green tones balancing out the design. Light and heavyweight knits are topped with hand stitched, knitted bombers in steel blue, black and burgundy. The collection also plays with a selection of sophisticated graphics, enveloping an array of garments ー the split coat, a double-zip jacket, a work pant ー in a post-Impressionist still life produced on custom polyester jacquard. Blacked out varsity jackets with chenille patches and Ivy-inspired collegiate tees add a pop of prep, while wool mohair suits in black and chocolate brown serve as sartorial standouts. 

The luxury essentials label will also hold a presentation in honor of Paris Fashion Week, situating the latest line in a multi-functional space grounded in the brand’s primary influences. Yagi often draws upon a broad range of references from within the brand’s New York-based Research Library (yes, they are that committed), and a curated selection of reference materials will be presented alongside the collection’s displays. Wooden furniture designed by Shin Okuda’s LA based studio, Waka Waka, will enhance the room’s functionality and Paris-based cafe, Dreamin Man, will offer coffee and snacks. And in a final nod to vowels’ Japanese roots, the space will include a room inspired by Japanese listening bars ー small, quiet settings providing high-end audio equipment for any and all music lovers to sit back and enjoy.

vowels AW25 exhibition will be open at 43 rue de Montmorency from January 24 – January 25 between the hours of 11am – 8pm.