Milan shows were unexpected. Simply because we are used to seeing Milan as the sexy capital of the great fashion four. Collections presented last week were romantic and more storytelling-inspired than ever. It’s actually a wonderful surprise because you can witness firsthand how hard are Italian designers are rethinking the definition of womenswear in this day & age. I’m not saying sex appeal is frivolous, far from that, but women today need more substance to get seduced by fashion. 

Browse V’s Top 10 Womenswear Collections from Milan, where Fashion Director Gro Curtis breaks down the Milan fashion scene below:

DSQUARED2 look 22

The most famous Canadian twins in fashion, Dean and Dan Caten delivered what can be called an “atypical” Dsquared2 collection. Caten’s are notorious for their loud point of view and “in your face” sexy looks but, for Spring 2021, they chose a different route. Their new collection looks like it walked out of Helmut Newton erotic but extremely chic ’70s editorial. It’s all about killer tailoring, perfect slip dresses, and the power of black color. Sometimes silence speaks volumes. This was by far an unexpected but noteworthy move by Dean and Dan. 

NO. 21 look 15

Alessandro Dell’Acqua simply has to be on the map of every fashion enthusiast. Dell’Acqua moves with power and ease through the fashion world since the mid-’90s but his latest collection is proving to be true gems. This very look can describe the whole of Milan fashion week mood in one image. Dell’Acqua brilliantly mixed oversized (perhaps boyfriends?) hoodie with a glorious feather skirt and costume jewelry. The final result is a sublime; collection that is both exotic and down to earth. 

PRADA look 21

The whole fashion world was breathlessly expecting the birth of a creative love child from the most (un)usual pairing in the contemporary history of fashion: Miuccia’s Prada first collection with Raf Simons. Both of them are giants (and darlings) of the industry so it’s no wonder that the final result is a monumental vision of style. Prada with the pinch of Simons feels new, futuristic, and so well on point. This particular look unites both designers. You can see all the Prada-isms while the model is clutching her overcoat with pink shoes and lady bag but there is also Simons with perfectly tailored pants and deconstructed turtle neck. This unity was simply a meant-to-be collaboration. Oddly enough even, though everything felt new-er, it also felt natural. But, that is the power of Prada and Simons. 

FENDI look 31

 

The new Fendi collection is both about the past and future, perfectly situated in present. During the hard months of the lockdown, Silvia Venturi-Fendi took a good look at her stunning family. This was a celebration of family history. One could see the immaculate style of her legendary sisters but also the influence of the new Fendi generation, Silvia’s daughter and her nieces were on top of her mind. Even though everything felt so precious it didn’t look outdated. It looked familiar, comforting, feminine, and very Roman. You knew you were looking into the rich legacy of one of the most important Italian fashion dynasties. It was an intimate portrayal by Silvia and I wish we could see more of her womenswear touches.

MARNI look 34

Francesco Risso is something of a brilliant Mad Hatter of the fashion industry and, in general. His collections for Marni are groundbreaking creative experiments that can puzzle your mind with magic. For Spring 2021 Francesco invited friends and collaborators from all around the world to wear his looks. And the looks themselves came from the rich Marni archive but first, they went through Risso’s surgically precise hands. He adores to tear apart and connect together with unexpected twists. Here you can see typical Marni prints but the whole look is a product of Risso’s incredible mind. 

PHILOSOPHY by LORENZO SERAFINI look 22

Only Lorenzo Serafini can take old rain boots, menswear looking boxer shorts, a tank top and pair it with the most romantic and delicious looking dress. Serafini, who is a master of the chicest eveningwear for power girls of Milan, proved to be an inspiring daywear creator. 

VALENTINO look 27

Pierpaolo Piccoli presented his new Valentino collection in Milan for the first time ever. There is no doubt Piccoli is the most beloved designer of gowns on the fashion planet but his Spring collection was more sober than strictly magical. In this look, we can see what happens when you extend a simple dress shirt and give her more volume. It’s actually a perfect example of Valentino’s adaptation to these crazy times. Being sober doesn’t mean you need to be more strict, you simply have to be more imaginative. 

GIORGIO ARMANI look 43

As you get a bit older and more mature while working in the fashion industry you tend to discover a specific type of respect and admiration for Mr. Armani’s work. Giorgio Armani serves like a lighthouse of our world. Proof whose sole presence tells you that everything will be alright. As much as we all need fashion fantasy to dream we also need perfectly tailored Armani suits. I literally had to see it this season to feel safe. Armani is not just a king of timeless elegance. He is also a guardian of style because don’t forget; we spent more time talking about trends then thinking about true style.  

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO look 16

If anyone knows a thing or two about how to use leather in your wardrobe it’s Paul Andrew. His minimalistic approach for Ferragamo is far, far away from what Milan usually serves us during the fashion month. But nothing is what it used to be anymore, so perhaps, more of our attention should go to smart details which occupy Andrew’s mind when executing the perfect leather piece. 

GIULIA BARBIERI 

Young designer Giulia Barbieri is the winner of the Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana Fashion Award and new crown prodigy of the Italian fashion scene. She was part of the Milano Moda Graduate fashion event showcasing the best talents of Italian fashion school. What I particularly love about Barbieri’s work is a certain tomboy chic she provides using plaids and vintage style knitwear. Be sure to have her on your radar!