Matthieu Blazy Looks to the Past to Inform the Future for Chanel FW26

Drawing on Coco Chanel’s metaphor of the caterpillar and the butterfly, the collection focuses on transformation

Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel Fall/Winter 2026 collection proposes fashion as a space where utility and transformation coexist. Chanel historically built its identity on functional garments adapted from menswear and workwear, yet always preserved the possibility of feminine silhouettes. Blazy’s proposal revisits that dual structure and treats it as the foundation of the collection.

The Chanel suit remains the central device through which this idea unfolds. The collection treats the suit as an adaptable framework where tweed appears alongside ribbed knits, gauze, lurex, and fabrics incorporating silicone fibers. This expands the material vocabulary traditionally associated with the house. These interventions emphasize mobility and lightness, particularly in knitted or beaded versions that shift the suit away from stiff tailoring and toward a more flexible structure.

The collection also centers itself within a layered historical timeline. Silhouettes move between the twenties, thirties, fifties, and sixties, drawing from different periods of Chanel’s evolution. These references are treated as overlapping strata, since the effect is a compressed chronology where multiple moments in the house’s history coexist within the same collection. In this framework the Chanel suit functions as a recurring motif that connects these different temporal references.

Another recurring theme is the relationship between the natural and the artificial. Iridescent surfaces, fluid fabrics, and references to nocturnal butterflies evoke the idea of metamorphosis throughout the collection. This sense of transformation continues in the accessories, where enamel, resin, and tinted mother-of-pearl create reflective, saturated surfaces. In this way, nature appears as an art mediated through craft and synthetic materials.

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