For Yohji Yamamoto’s AW 2021 collection, the clothes serve as a throwback. We mean way back. We’re talking 19th-century vibes: when long ankle-length silhouettes reigned supreme and elegant lace-up corsets were a staple in every wardrobe. On Friday afternoon, Yamamoto presented his collection in the typical 2021 modus operandi — exclusively online. 

A 23-minute video of 33 looks serves as a substitute for a Paris Fashion Week runway. Models walk woefully down a carpeted runway draped in the finest all-black attire with serious, downcast expressions. Mournful yet hopeful. Cheerless yet optimistic. That’s the dichotomy of Yamamoto who so expertly weaves polarity into his works, incorporating the antique with the modern. This presentation marks his third video collaboration with  Japanese-photographer, TAKAY, who captures the inherent punk spirit of Yamamoto’s designs. The Japanese designer provides his thoughts through a serious narration, discussing various aspects of life including failure, men and women, and the infinitesimal potential of womenswear itself.

Solemn music provides a backdrop for gothic elegance. A cap sleeve gown with asymmetrical front detailing represents the beauty of simplicity, perhaps a commentary on the times we currently find ourselves in having abandoned opulence of yesteryear for a less complicated, more stationary lifestyle. An oversized black blazer is in tune with the must-have coat trend of the moment. Instead of buttons, however, Yamamoto opts for a supersized safety pin. The look is paired with hiking boot-like footwear — another trend box checked in Yamamoto fashion. The simple silhouettes are embellished with wires and chains as an announcement of an upcoming Yohji Yamamoto accessory line.

Yamamoto introduces understated punk to a post-pandemic world in his newest collection. Check out the latest line exclusively on the Yamamoto website and the FHCM webpage.