Calvin Klein has long been a staple of the American wardrobe, but the label has seen a fresh surge of interest since American Love Story took over people’s screens earlier this year. Retelling the romance of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy and John F. Kennedy Jr., the series put the house’s clean lines at the center of the story—Carolyn worked there at the time, and its restraint shaped the minimalism she became known for. For Spring 2027, that same pared-back sensibility returns to the runway with a new sense of modernity.

Two flags: the series is American Love Story, not Love Story, so the short form reads oddly on second reference. And “designer” for the brand is worth swapping to “label” or “house”—the original could be read as referring to Calvin Klein the person, who hasn’t designed for the company since 2002.

Creative Director Veronica Leoni has been with the fashion house for just a little over two years, but seems to deeply understand the brand’s appreciation for American minimalism. “American Minimalism was a discipline of removal: take away everything that does not carry the work, until only what is necessary remains,” said Leoni. “Calvin drew from that and turned it toward the body. I turn it toward the woman inside it. My minimalism begins there, in the relation between design and a body, with nothing in between. Take everything away. What is left is desire.” 

The foundation of the house’s collection is what a woman has always loved about Calvin Klein clothes: tailored coats, shirts, trousers, pencil skirts and slips. Simple t-shirts are chic, slip dresses are full evening outfits. Further nodding to Carolyn Bessette’s style, accessories like headbands, large bags and intentional scarves dress the outfits. Color-blocking with loud colors like cherry red, shades of blue, and bright yellow mixed with the always iconic black and white, Calvin Klein Spring 2027 shows Fashion Week attendees that minimalism is not to be mistaken with quietness. 

Taking place at New York’s Terminal Warehouse, a block-long brick building built in the early 1890s, stars entered and passed through sculptures by Walter De Maria amongst a Kid Harpoon soundtrack. Attendees included singers Rosalía and Tate McRae, iconic ballet dancer Misty Copeland, actresses Sadie Sink, Pamela Anderson, Teyana Taylor, models Lila Moss and Emily Ratajkowski, and influencers Jake Shane and Nara Smith, just to name a few.