Though it may be forever DIY in spirit, Eckhaus Latta in practice is hardly a mom-and-pop operation—or at least one imagines so, with founders Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta long based on opposite coasts. Behind every milestone, perhaps, lies an untold story of pressurized conference calls and epic group-text chains. 

As Eckhaus has grown both quantitatively and qualitatively, with brick-and-mortar expansion, a Whitney solo show, and most recently a collaboration with Australian footwear corp UGG, their breezy, youthful exterior has slowly grown upwards, moving from the school of anti-seamlessness and toward covetable, crafty cache. This trajectory culminated yesterday in the brand’s most accessible and tailored collection yet: Spring/Summer 2020 showcased wearables, from monochromatic sequined slips to sensible sportswear. There was even a pantsuit—one that moved freely in its touchable silk construction.   

To note the collection’s sensorial appeal is not to say that Spring/Summer 2020 lacked a sense of ironic flair. Seen outside the bounds of its jetsetting campaign, the footwear collab with UGG revealed unexpected proportions. In contrast to the heft of women’s platform mules, the Eckhaus Latta take on the moon-boot turned out to be surprisingly sleek, ankle-high and almost trainer-like. Like most every piece on the runway, both symbolized a step up.