Viktor & Rolf Spring/Summer 2023: Mariage in Barcelona
The avant grade label returns with a debut in Spain
Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week commenced this year with new special guests: Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of Viktor & Rolf. While the Dutch duo returned earlier this year after a two-year pause with their Spring/Summer 2022 collection this past January, exploring elongated and skewed silhouettes, as is typical for the label’s signature, their bridal collection ‘Mariage’ leans into a different artistic interpretation.
The show included selections of wedding gowns from the archives, hinting at the duo’s passion for wanting to constantly be at the forefront of what ‘modern’ may mean in luxury fashion as “we have always been fascinated by the wedding dress because it is a small universe in itself. It is an icon of the most wonderful moments in life” as stated in a press release.”
The collection encompassed 37 looks where the house took this fascination to a personal level, transitioning between vintage-like A-line dresses and layered mesh nightgowns with brocade and embellished flowers. Petite veils that only fall just below the chin stood out most, especially when juxtaposed with a squared-necked column dress with organza sleeves that seemed to highlight the shoulders just right.
Even while the whimsical drama was laid to rest as bridal tends to enforce a constraint on Viktor & Rolf’s usual performance, it allowed the label to lean into a more subtle fantasy, one that dives deep into romanticism and the makings of a modern bride.